Material guide

Selecting Western Red Cedar Grades

Updated May 29, 2026 · Reading time about 7 minutes

Most outdoor cedar sold in Canada is western red cedar (Thuja plicata). Two boards from the same species can behave very differently outdoors depending on grade and on how much of each board is heartwood. Picking the right grade is usually a larger factor in service life than the brand of finish applied later.

A mature western red cedar tree in Vancouver
Western red cedar in Vancouver. The reddish heartwood, not the paler sapwood, carries the wood's natural decay resistance.

Heartwood versus sapwood

The natural durability cedar is known for comes from extractives concentrated in the heartwood, the darker inner wood of the tree. Sapwood, the paler band near the bark, contains little of these extractives and is not rated as durable. When a board shows a wide stripe of light sapwood along one edge, that edge is the part most likely to weather and decay first.

For ground-contact or moisture-prone parts, such as the bottom rail of a fence or the lowest board of a raised bed, boards that are predominantly heartwood are the more conservative choice.

The common appearance grades

Cedar is graded mainly on appearance rather than strength, because it is rarely used as primary structural framing. The grade names below follow the appearance categories used by the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association and Canadian mills.

GradeKnotsTypical use
Clear (e.g. Clear Vertical Grain)Essentially knot-freeTrim, fascia, exposed cladding, fine joinery
Select KnottySmall, tight, sound knotsQuality fences, pergolas, visible structures
Knotty / StandardLarger and more frequent knotsUtility fencing, posts, rough framing

Higher appearance grades cost more because clear cedar comes from larger, older logs and yields less per tree. For a back fence, a knotty grade is often a reasonable balance; for trim that sits at eye level, the smoother select or clear grades earn their price.

Grain orientation

Boards are also described by grain. Vertical-grain (quarter-sawn) boards show tight parallel lines on the face and tend to stay flatter and cup less than flat-grain (plain-sawn) boards, which show the wider cathedral pattern. Where movement matters, such as wide deck or cladding boards, vertical grain is the steadier option.

Practical check at the yard: sight down each board for bow and twist, look at the end grain to judge vertical versus flat grain, and check how much sapwood runs along the edges. These three quick checks separate boards that will sit flat from those that will fight you on installation day.

Matching grade to the job

Storing cedar before you build

Cedar delivered to a site is rarely at its final moisture content. Stack it flat on level supports, keep it off the ground, and let air move around it under cover. Building with boards that are still adjusting to local humidity is a common cause of gaps and cupping that appear weeks after a project looks finished.

References

· Western Red Cedar Lumber Association — grades and product information: realcedar.com
· Canadian Wood Council — wood species and durability: cwc.ca
· Natural Resources Canada — Canadian forests and wood products: natural-resources.canada.ca